Wine Rack with Serving Tray
This simple to build wine rack will store up to eight one-litre bottles of wine.
It has a handy shelf that you can use to store a cork remover, wine guide, white gloves and the like, and a removable top that does double duty as a serving tray.
A bit too small for your collection of Mouton Rothschild 1945? No problem – you can easily extend the storage capacity by making the sides taller and adding more rails. However if you do build a taller rack secure it to the wall to prevent it from tipping over.
Use hole saw to drill curves
First rout handle with ½" piloted cove bit
Rout again with ¼" piloted round over bit
Finish with ½" piloted round over bit
Legs and Stretchers Bear the Load
To simplify joinery I used dowels, splines and knock-down hardware. Connector bolts hold the side assemblies to the rails for easy disassembly. If you don’t have access to a doweling jig for this project you can use biscuit joinery, mortise and tenon joinery, or countersunk screws. To keep the design as clean and uncluttered as possible, and to reduce material costs, I chose quarter-sawn red oak. In place of oak you can use any hardwood that compliments the decor in whichever room you put your wine rack.
To avoid glue lines and achieve a slim, straight look, begin with 8/4 (2″ thick) quarter sawn-stock. If you can’t get 8/4 stock, glue together three pieces of 3/4″ stock, mill it ⅛” undersized, and then glue a piece of ⅛” veneer over the glue line. It is quite easy to re-saw your own veneer (for more on re-sawing see the “Little Ripper” article in Canadian Woodworking magazine, Feb/Mar’04, Issue #28). You’ll want to place the best side of each leg facing towards the front, which will be most visible.
Rack and Rail
The rails that hold the bottles in place form the racking for this stand. Select the material for the front rails carefully, as they will be most visible. Choose pieces that have straight grain; wild looking grain will clash with the curves on the rails and give the project a confused look.
Knock Down Fittings for a Collapsible Rack
To make this unit collapsible, a few of the dowel holes that have already been drilled will need to be enlarged. However, if you prefer to permanently assemble this rack, skip the knock-down section below, and just assemble the unit with dowels.
A Convertible Top
Apply Finish Before Assembly
At this stage, all of the pieces have been machined and shaped. Sand the pieces with 150 and 180 grit sandpaper. Apply a coat of Watco Natural Danish Oil Finish to every part, being careful not to get any finish in the dowel holes or on surfaces that will be glued – a thin strip of masking tape will help with this. Follow up with a coat of wax. If you are building this piece to match an existing set of cabinets or furniture adjust your finish to suit.
All Good Things Come To an End
This project goes together without much fuss. The important thing to remember is not to glue the rails to the dowels if you are making a knock down rack. For the splines you can use ⅛” plywood or solid wood.
Now you’re ready for the most important part of the project. Place the rack in its domain, stock it with your favourite bottles of the fruit of the vine, cozy into your favourite armchair with this month’s copy of Canadian Woodworking, put your feet up, and toast the completion of another project.